Sustainability: Certification: Season 1 Episode 8
Dawn and Katie discuss a range of certification processes for sustainable textiles and sustainable architecture.
Cotton harvesting. (Image courtesy of abs, apparel, business, systems.)
Dawn leads off the conversation. In the textile industry designers face critical choices about how we manufacture and/or specify our products. Original, thoughtful design may determine the success of any product, but whether it’s fashion, home décor, or commercial contract fabrics, it has become absolutely necessary to consider sourcing environmentally considerate fibers and dyes. Dawn’s choices have included organic cotton and hemp.
In the context of sustainable material sourcing, Dawn discusses the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). According to the GOTS website,
“The Global Organic Textile Standard is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. The aim of the standard is to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. This standard stipulates requirements throughout the supply chain for both ecology and labor conditions in textile and apparel manufacturing using organically produced raw materials. Organic production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic, persistent pesticides and fertilizers. In addition, organic production relies on adequate animal husbandry and excludes genetic modification.”
Dawn mentions three material suppliers she relies on:
Enviro Textiles for primarily hemp fabrics and some blends of hemp/organic cotton. (All cotton is certified organically grown by Control Union according to the NOP National Organic Program.) The Enviro Textiles website notes,
“Each product must pass a Sustainable Biodegradable Products Certification. The SBP® certification label informs the consumer about each step that takes place when a product is made, from the raw materials used to the labor conditions involved. We are proud to offer full transparency for the life cycle of our products. All certifications offered are listed within our transparency and where they fit in. We are industry leaders in the effort to improve corporate responsibility and transparency in manufacturing processes and labeling. EnviroTextiles personally manages each of our suppliers across the globe and also provides these communities with jobs, infrastructure, and community support.”
Hemp Basics. According to their website,
“Since day one, Hemp Basics has been at the forefront of the re-emergence of Hemp as a viable commercial product that has not yet realized its full potential — despite it having been in continuous use by mankind for over 6,000 years.”
Organic Cotton Plus. Their website mentions,
"From finding ways to weave and knit new organic fabrics, to sourcing notions like coconut buttons and colorful ribbons, crafting and manufacturing projects are what drive us every day. With low prices, maintaining a huge (and growing!) selection, and making sure we have the best certification and eco-credentials in the industry."
Another great place for information on sustainable/organic textiles is Textile Exchange.
Katie turns the conversation to certification of sustainable buildings/architecture. For an overview, Katie shares a number of different certification processes, listing them chronologically from when they were developed:
Energy Star Certified New Homes and Apartments
Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)
Passive House Institute U.S. (PHIUS)
Katie then revisits the Living Building Challenge from the International Living Future Institute, which she mentioned in the DMaH Episode 3: Sustainability intro. Katie sees it as the most aspirational of the various certification processes.
(Image courtesy of the International Living Future Institute)
To get a sense of how the Living Building Challenge is organized, check out the Summary Matrix found on the International Living Future Institute website.
(Image courtesy of the International Living Future Institute.)
You’ll notice there are seven categories identified on the left side of the matrix. The Living Building Challenge calls these “Petals”.
(Image courtesy of the International Living Future Institute.)
Katie recommends that homeowners considering new or renovation projects aim high, think big about how their project might impact the environment. Start with the lofty goals of the Living Building Challenge. But, admittedly, the certification process for sustainable building can seem overwhelming to some. Along those lines, Katie mentions an article in Fine Homebuilding magazine’s June 2020 issue about a grassroots building standard called the Pretty Good House (PGH).
The cottage that Katie and her husband share is 1550 square feet, which (nearly) suits the size parameters of the PGH. (Read about Katie and her husband’s house in the introduction to Katie’s first book The New Small House.)
One of the ways that the PGH suggests to mitigate the impacts of climate change is to “be as small as possible — specifically 1000 square feet for one person, 1500 square feet for two, 1750 square feet for three, and 1875 square feet for four. (Some people find these numbers too low, other say they are too big, but they are Pretty Good targets.)” Read the FHB story and visit the PGH website to learn more about others measures they recommend.
Katie and Dawn suggest that listeners delve deeply into some of the links provided here in order to fine tune their priorities and to start charting a course toward a sustainable future.
